The Witch of Tirli

And some of the village elders swear: “She was not evil. She was simply different. The mountain loved her.”

Among dense woods of holm oaks and chestnut trees, on the hills that overlook the sea and protect the inland area of Grosseto, lies a small village wrapped in silence and the scent of burning wood: Tirli.

Those who arrive today find peace, nature, and breathtaking views. But those who stay past sunset, on moonless nights, may sense something different. A breath in the fog. A step among the leaves. A soft chant carried by the wind. That is when, according to the village elders, she awakens.

🌲 The time when the scrub had eyes: Many years ago, when Tirli was inhabited almost exclusively by charcoal burners, shepherds, and woodsmen, people lived in symbiosis with the mountain. Yet there were places no one dared to enter. A shady clearing between two hills, known as Belvedere, was avoided by all—not out of fear of wild animals, but because of something older.

It was said that a solitary woman lived there, old and bent, dressed in dark clothes with long silver hair, who knew the language of herbs and birds. She would appear suddenly along the paths, and her eyes seemed to see beyond time. They called her the Witch of Tirli, though no one remembered her true name anymore.

🕯️ Fear, respect… and gratitude: Many feared her, yet no one dared to harm her. Some went to her in secret to ask for an herbal tea for fever, a blessing for the crops, or a word against bad luck. She asked for no money, but accepted a little bread, some honey, or a bag of chestnuts.

It was said she spoke with foxes, lit fires with her voice alone, and knew the destiny of newborn children. Once, they tell, she wounded with her gaze a man who wanted to cut down a sacred chestnut tree, and from that day on he lost the power of speech.

🌫️ The day she disappeared: One particularly harsh winter, no one saw her again. Some thought she had died. Others said she had returned “to where she came from.” But every year, on the longest night of the year—the winter solstice—someone swears they see a dark-clad figure among the chestnut trees of Belvedere.

Those who meet her must remain silent, feel no fear, and carry an offering: a sprig of rosemary, an apple, or a lit candle. In return, the witch may grant a dream, a sign, or a small miracle.

✨ Today: In Tirli, the legend of the witch is still alive—in stories told by the fireplace, in children’s whispers, in hikes through the ancient woods leading toward La Collacchia or the Val delle Cannucce. Her presence is still felt. And some of the village elders swear: “She was not evil. She was simply different. The mountain loved her.”

🎒 For those visiting Tirli: Recommended routes: trails between Tirli, Poggio Ballone, and Castiglione della Pescaia. Best time: autumn and winter, when fog envelops the mountain. Experience: guided walk with storytelling of the legend + tasting of honey, chestnuts, and mulled wine.